France has wonderful tourism resources-sidewalk cafes, food styles to discuss, a myriad of wine producing regions, area cheese from unpasteurised milks and historic sites to please any eye.
But rarely will I find a cup of French coffee deemed pleasant. There is a solid failure because of what I think is a no barista culture-anyone brews but few skills exist from the green bean upwards. The fancy espresso machines are everywhere.
So why? Maybe because France has a long affinity with Vietnam, but Viet beans generally are low end. And our contrasting Italian friends show the high standards as their affinities come from Brazil whose natural and honey style beans now just make an espresso sizzle.
So it has been outsiders who are slowly bringing the improvements to France’s coffee offerings with roaster start-ups using high quality beans and then following through with barista education to deliver top drinks of flat white or espresso-Americans, Australians, New Zealanders etc.
So here are ten Parisian coffee shops who should separate their offer of flat white or espresso from drossy coffee over cream or spoilt milk or short long blacks masquerading as espresso.
My fav is Bob’s Kitchen; a totally unpretentious spot yet one where I encountered a voice from Brisbane, and an expresso which delivered. The roast beans of super quality originated at the artisan torrefacteur Lomi.
TEN TOP PARISIEN CUPS OF COFFEE
TELESCOPE rue Villedo, 5, 75001 Paris, +33 1 42 61 33 14 (1 arr)
CREAM rue de Belleville, 50, 75020 Paris, +33 9 83 66 58 43 (20 arr)
BOB’S KITCHEN rue des Gravilliers, 74, 75003 Paris +33 9 52 55 11 66 (3 arr)
CAFE BELLEVILLE rue Pradier, 10, where it started in Belleville, roaster distributes to over 20 specialty cafes; Paris +33 9 83 75 60 80 (19 arr); I even spied Ethopian Yirgacheff.
CAFE LOMI rue Marcadet, 3, Paris +33 9 80 39 56 24 (18 arr) ; artisan roaster and specialty coffee
TEN BELLES rue de la Grange aux Belles Canal St Martin, 10, +33 1 42 40 90 78 (10 arr)
CAFE LOUSTIC rue Chapon, 40, Paris +33 9 80 31 07 06 (3 arr)
FOUNDATION CAFE rue Dupetit Thouars, 16, Paris(3 arr) Belleville roasted
LA CAFEOTHEQUE rue de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, 52, Paris +33 1 53 01 83 84 (4 arr)
KAFFEE BAR 19 rue de l’Ourcq, 26 B, Paris,+33 1 75 42 82 63 (19 arr)
The author wishes to acknowledge Cafe Lomi and Cafe Belleville for their pictorial.
Like the latest
wine & travel news
Subscribe to our mailing list and get interesting stuff and updates to your email inbox.
I agree with the tenor of your remarks, Peter. For me, too, one of the problems in most cafes has been / is the use of UHT milk in ‘flat whites’. These new-breed cafes (often with some Aussie influences) have made a differences. Of those, you have signalled out, my favourite is Fondation. I know Cafeotheque well and admire its ethics and support of producers. I find its coffee a bit too robust for my liking but accept its quality. I would have found room to include KB Cafe in Pigalle (excellent coffee, food offerings disappoint) to give a wider geographic spread.
The huge omission is my absolute favourite, Coutume, 47 rue de Babylone, 75007 where the flat whites are sublime, the food good to very good, and the service friendly. It’s the kind of place where they recognise you on the second visit and remember your order by the third. Best
Peter