The 2006 Boireann reds are an impressive bunch-they stimulate the taster and create some intellectual thought about how such wines come about from this very special patch. The fact that it’s the coldest site in the Granite Belt accounts for some of the delicious flavours but this also exposes the vineyard to the worst aspects of nature-like the November 15 2006 blizzard of -6 oC which frosted out Boireann. Peter and Therese came to grips with their total loss and purchased grapes of their standard from other kind producers in the GI.

Merlot 2006 94 2.5 barrels-has concentration, power, nose is cedary, touch closed of course, lovely fine plummy fruit followed by powdery and close tannins, good alcohol warmth, picked at 12.8 Be. Drink 2010-2015

Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 93 3 barrels-great colour, very spiced, powerful, tobacco, concentration, touch of oak char, very fine, long tannins, close knit, picked 13.3 and 13.8 Be. Drink 2008-2014

The Lurnea 2006 95 3 barrels-wonderful violets and small flowers, so aromatic and encompassing, mouth sweet, soft, silky fine tannin, 40% merlot, 30% petit verdot, 30% cabernet franc. Drink 2007-2010

Barbera 2006 89 2 barrels-aromatic, jam, mulberries, nice varietal flavours, soft, has high natural acidity often found with this variety, picked 13.5 Be. Drink 2007-2009

Mourvedre Shiraz Grenache 2006 93 3 barrels-earthy, briary, peppery, great fruit palate, black cherry, enormous power, on the full-bodied and tannic side for this blend, 10% tannat, picked 13.6, 13.8, 13.2 Be. Drink 2010-2015

Shiraz Viognier 2006 94 2 barrels-great colour, heady aromas, white pepper, nose sweetness, big palate on the tannic side, supports the concentration, spice, depth and power, alcohol warm, picked 13.8 Be. Drink 2010-2020

Nebbiolo 2006 90 2 barrels-washed out colour, hard to ripen this variety, little oak shows, sweet mouth impression, lots of tannin, left unfined for lovers of this Piedmontese star, picked 13.5 Be. Drink 2007-2010

Latest vintage ratings (red only):

2000 Boireann 6/10 GI 8/10; 2001 Boireann 4/10 GI 6/10

2002 Boireann 8/10 GI 9/10; 2003 Boireann 4/10 GI 7/10

2004 Boireann 6/10 GI 6/10; 2005 Boireann 9/10 GI 10/10

2006 Boireann 7/10 GI 8/10; 2007 Boireann 7/10 GI 8/10

Mentions of vintage disasters during 2007 will be reported over the next twelve months. Some correspondents like to not report the really bad parts because it affects how such a region might be regarded by consumers. So often the ugly parts of a vintage go unreported-such as the fact that some Great Southern WA vineyards did not pick a cabernet grape during the 2006 harvest. And Margaret River also did it tough with some thin cabernets being declassified.

The latest good news from this area comes in the “Mentelle Notes” March 2007 where winemaker Robert Mann suggests that Cape Mentelle will release a 2006 cabernet in 2010 (although there is plenty of time to re-evaluate), as this company has rushed to be reassuring amongst the many writings about a slim WA red vintage. Mr Mann goes on to explain that there will be limited stocks-undoubtedly from rigorous declassifying of the wines that remain which he quaintly calls restrained and elegant-the optimistic description for wines verging on green tannins.

The best way to announce that a region has enjoyed a reasonable vintage and thus stands on the quality stakes for 2007 is to diplomatically mention the vintage hassles that other regions have encountered. Then draw a positive position for the year against regions which dealt with bushfires (central and southern Victoria), frost (Tasmania, southern Victoria, south-east SA, northern NSW or Granite Belt), hail (Orange, Canberra and numerous isolated vineyards across Australia) coupled with drought (almost everywhere). “Mentelle Notes” succinctly points out the troubled areas (and therefore quality-threatened) and announces “unless of course you are in god’s own country-Margaret River-where 2007 is destined to be the greatest vintage ever”. Looks like Murray Tyrrell has a mimic! Mentelle’s viticulturist Steve Meckiff did not miss pointing out what wines are likely to look ordinary in 2007 with descriptions such as “the worst losses were experienced in some of the country’s best wine regions”. That can be interpreted further by implication to mean the regions mentioned in this article.

I followed the temperature maxima in Margaret River and watched “god’s own country” struggle with temperatures as high as 33 oC at the point of harvesting the sauvignon blanc. So it will not be the greatest vintage ever for sauvignon blanc and semillon blend wines because the hot ripening temperatures burn off the delicate tropical aroma characters. The same ripening complication occurred in Orange plus it rained.

I save my deepest sympathies for the growers and makers in central and southern Victoria who experienced bushfire dust events. Vineyards did not have to be under bushfire threat to have fire taint turn up in the crop-dust clouds, prevailing winds and heavy atmospheric conditions dumped the stuff at points far away from fire fronts. That fact that Brown Brothers rejected 2000 tonnes of grapes with fire taint explains the situation. Unlike TCA which is chiefly odorous this taint is both nose obvious and palate penetrating (smoked salami on the tongue). Smoked pinot spotting could be a game to supersede wine options! But seriously fire taint may emerge as a serious threat to the viability of the premium part of the Victorian wine industry if global warming promotes such summer blazes in future dry seasons.

This site serves to post commentary on wine and food issues.

The subject matter is encouragingly varied to also include local and international wine politics, wine show results and their interpretation, wine journalism and the odd technical note (until brett goes away).

There will be climate issues and this aspect has future influence on categorising the style of wine you drink.

Some Queensland regions are having dream vintage 2007 conditions when parts of Australia are a mess, and importantly for a Queensland domiciled wine drinker (no the growing conditions are not tropical) to provide objective met reports and interpretations of climatic misconceptions.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au