Alessandro Cellai is a very engaging chap: he calmly pours small tastes from great bottles that he has made or supervised.

From the village of Castellina 400 metres up in the Tuscan hills comes his owner’s Castellare Chianti Classico 2008 (US$15), a great drink now with plenty of that bitter-sweet crunching sensation. Made from 95 percent of the sangiovese grape, and 5 percent another thinly-planted red grape-canaiolo.

Actually Castellare have taken to tradition using the term sangioveto, not sangiovese, as the former was the original name of the grape in Etruscan times, and vines around this property are clonal descendants of the ancient original. The vineyard of 22 hectares is organically managed.

The single vineyard wine from Castellare is Vigna Il Poggiale Riserva 2007 (US$30), first made in 1997, still a little stiff in the mouth but generous un the black cherry flavours of sangiovese (90 percent sangioveto, 10 percent canaiolo).

The property’s top wine is all barrique-aged: I Sodi di S Niccolo 2007 (US$44); a thumping-tannic wine with heaps of fleshy flavour concentration-Cellai says he green harvests three times to reduce and manage his crop (85 percent sangioveto, 15 percent malvasia nero). San Niccolo is describing the ruins of the Romanesque church which lies in the vineyard.

Castellare have also joined with Bordeaux producer Domaines Rothschild-Chateau Lafite to plant a 75 ha property-Rocca di Frassenello in southern Tuscany (Maremma), the source vines being cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot from France. The vineyard was planted between 1999 and 2002 with syrah being added in 2009.

In Bordelais naming fashion the entry level wine is Poggio Alla Guardia 2007 (US$22); hefty wine, 14percent alcohol, merlot 45 percent, cabernet 40 percent and sangioveto 15 percent with lots of savoury fruit and fine tannin.

The mid-level wine is Le Suchere di Frassinello 2007 (US$35); 50 percent sangioveto, 25 percent cabernet, 25 percent merlot, more heavily oak aged from 50 percent new and 50 percent second use oak.

Next comes the Estate-named wine; Rocca di Frassinello 2007 (US$57); 60 percent sangioveto, 20 percent cabernet, 20 percent merlot, one serious wine of enormous depth and no doubt rivalling our Brunello friends nearby for flavour intensity. Aged in 70percent new oak, 30percent second fill.

The finale however is given to the single vineyard merlot wine, made famous by a nearby Ornellaia’s wine-Masseto, which has turned heads in many countries. Rocca di Frassinello’s wine is called Baffonero 2007 (US$150); one very special wine.

In part that is due to the particular vineyard precision where bunches are progressively removed until each vine ripens only one bunch-extreme viticulture here-and when harvested each berry is selected for use in the wine or not. Baffonero 2007 is one seriously dense wine, 100percent new oak for thirteen months, also closely planted at 6000 vines per hectare.

My impression of Castellare marketing is to preserve a little of the past, and embrace new and novel ideas, but every so often grab on the Tuscan roots and hold on to what is very out-dated, but original, such as the black malvasia grapes still planted in the vineyard.

Back in Castellina Alessandro has released his own range of wines from high-planted vineyards under the label Poderi Monastero with pinot nero (pinot noir) and cabernet merlot; again using extreme winemaking, cold macerating at 0oc for twelve hours and later introducing American oak into his aging program.

The recent RNA Brisbane Wine Show was a watershed event in 2010. For the first time in 133 years of operation of this show a Queensland wine was acknowledged as the best of its Queensland peers – as the best gold medal Queensland wine.

The award was the inaugural Corrigan and Scudamore-Smith Trophy, partly presented by this writer for wines judged by non-Queensland judges.

The RNA had invited 10 non-Queensland judges and three locals (Tony Harper, Andrew Corrigan and the writer).

Two wines vied for the award: Sirromet Vineyard Selection 820 Above Verdelho 2009 and Ballandean Estate Generation 3 Shiraz 2007 in a dead-heat in the count down.

The chief judge Phillip John of Adelaide made his casting vote in favour of Ballandean Estate, and red triumphed over white perhaps!

This wine is terrific, and it’s great to focus on a great Queensland product. It has the essence of pure varietal cool climate shiraz, be it in a measured way with delightful texture.

As the most select wine made by Ballandean Estate winemaker Dylan Rhymer, Generation 3 was introduced after the company celebrated its 75th anniversary and three generations of the owners, the Puglisi family had run the business.

Dylan Rhymer had a grand time taking out the RNA Bursary Award for 2010: a new competition for Queensland winemakers under 40 who submit three wines they have recently made, and in their opinion, are outstanding examples. This year there were three entrants.

Rhymer provided Ballandean Estate Generation 3 Shiraz 2005, Late Harvest Sylvaner 2005 and Kooroomba Vineyard Verdelho Marsanne 2009.

Most successful Queensland Exhibitor was Symphony Hill from Eukey Road, Ballandean with five medals (Gewurztraminer 2010-47; Wild Child Viognier 2008-47; Reserve Bolivia Shiraz-51; Reserve Pinot Noir 2008-48 and Reserve Cabernet 2006-47). This is presented by the local Department of Employment, Economic Development and Innovation.

Mount Cotton-based Sirromet Wines had a good show, as apart from their verdelho gold, were awarded 46.5 for their Signature Collection Severn Scenes Sparkling Red (Petit Verdot) 2008.

In a record year for Queenslanders eighteen producers from four regions; Granite Belt, South Burnett, Scenic Rim and Darling Downs were successful exhibitors with 32 medals.

Granite Belt wineries included were newcomer Felsberg (Bell Tower Gewurztraminer 2010 47), Robert Channon (Reserve Chardonnay 2009 & Pinot Noir 46.5), another newcomer Twisted Gum (Shiraz 2009 47.5), new varieties specialist Golden Grove (Mourvedre 2009 47.5), excellent maker Ravenscroft (Verdelho 2009 46.5; Petit Verdot 2009 46.5), Tamborine-based Witches Falls (Botrytis Semillon 2008 46.5 & Prophecy Cabernet 2008 47),and related brand Aussie Vineyards Au (Pinot Noir 2007 48.5), Toowoomba-based Preston Peak (Reserve Shiraz 2008 46.5), Lucas Estate with three medals (Merlot 2008 47,The Surveyor 2008 48,Petit Verdot 2008 47.5), Summit Estate’s latest craze (Alto Monastrell etc 2008 47), near Cottonvale, Heritage Estate (Fortified Shiraz 2008 48.5) and Jester Hill (Touchstone Petit Verdot 2008 46.5).

From the Darling Downs Rimfire Vineyard Graciano 2007 46.5 stood out while on the Scenic Rim Normanby Wines (Chauvel Shiraz 2007 46.5 & Chambourcin 2007 47) were successful.

Further north in the South Burnett Clovely Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2007 47 and Left Field Nebbiolo 2009 47 were very good results.

Medals: 46.5-50.5 (Bronze), 51-55 (Silver); over 55.5 (Gold)

Brisbane’s pre-eminent wine show has just been completed with a swag of gold medals, 113, whereas the previous year the count was 55.

As a panel chair judge this gives me a very good fix on the current quality of the 2010 harvest (for the first time nationally), 2009, 2008 and occasionally the older vintages.

The 2010 harvest indication is drawn from the riesling, semillon, sauvignon blanc, other varietals and rose. Generally these were quite pedestrian wine classes so the vintage so far did not have many highlights.

But the better drops were riesling (Dandelion produced a stunner from Eden Valley as they did last year), semillon from the Hunter Valley (First Creek and Hungerford Hill) and Houghton cabernet rose.

Given that many 2010 wines were not yet bottled, the next capital city wine show in Adelaide in September should see a stronger showing of the vintage.

The year 2009 is a stunning event for young whites and pinot noir from all over this country really.

There were five riesling and seven chardonnay golds (Eden valley and Clare origins the first), (Adelaide Hills, Yarra Valley, Margaret River, Coonawarra and Tumbarumba for the latter), two semillon (Hunter and Barossa), four other varieties, viognier (Eden Valley), two verdelho (Granite Belt and Capel) and pinot gris (Adelaide Hills).

The two golds for pinot came from Tollana (Mornington Peninsula) and Bay of Fires (northern Tasmania).

Most 2009 reds are not bottled but they will be far superior to the previous 2008 vintage which is essentially lacklustre – be careful keeping any 2008s very long because many are destined to collapse quite quickly from poor colour, porty flavours and a general lack of character.

The South Australian heatwave that year had a telling blow.

The Australian wine show fraternity annually anoint a table wine which has been the most successful entrant in all capital city wine shows (six).

During the 2009 show season this award went to a white wine, Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2008 with the 2009 RNA entrant being a 2003 Hunter Valley semillon.

Despite the chief judge of this 2010 RNA wine show Phillip John lamenting the fact that Australian red wines are “missing in action” from the champion of champion award, the Brisbane entrant for the 2010 show season will be Leo Buring Leonay Riesling 2005.

So white has triumphed over red yet again; this time by a solitary vote (64 to 63) over a Coonawarra shiraz cabernet from Lindemans.

In alternative varieties a tempranillo from 2009 (Wrattonbully) won the trophy from an inky Durif 2008 (Riverina origin).

The moral of the show was the demise of Leasingham Classic Clare Cabernet 2006 for being sealed under cork: after gaining top gold in the open cabernet class it waivered in the trophy line-up against seven other red styles for best red of the show.

After two re-pours in the taste-off, both being tainted, the judges went on to concentrate on the fresher wines under screw cap, with the Lindemans wine prevailing.

More results: http://www.rna.org.au/home/inner.asp?pageID=77

There is one very applaudable wine show in this country-it’s in Cairns and thankfully held in June each year.

Now that’s a good time to attract southern wine judges who flee their winter freeze and like the capital of tropical sunshine.

The most important job for these judges-headed by Andrew Corrigan from Brisbane, Marie Clay (Fosters, McLaren Vale), Tony Hooper (Red Winemaker Jacob’s Creek, Barossa) and Andrew Spinaze (Chief Winemaker Tyrrells, Hunter) is to decide the best wine for tropical enjoyment. That’s a trophy.

This year it went to an aged semillon-Coolangatta Estate 2006 from Shoalhaven on the NSW South Coast. These guys have a huge history of winning trophies with old semillon so why not win another one.

That’s not easy in Cairns because the types of wines pushing to win this trophy are roses, rieslings, pinot gris, pinots and all things chillable to protect them from the sun under the palm trees.

Best red of the show was Richmond Grove Shiraz 2006 from the Barossa while the said Coolangatta wine took Best White.

Best Pinot Noir came from Portsea Estate 2008 from Mornington. It’s a wine with a high show achievement before this award.

Best Chardonnay and Best Queensland White went to a chardonnay from St George-Riversands Inland Way Chardonnay 2008, and what a cracking result as this wine out-pointed chardonnays from Tumbarumba, the Perth Hills, the Adelaide Hills and Cowra.

An even better result was best Queensland Red going to the small producer Ridgemill Estate with The Spaniard Tempranillo 2009, a wine made from the oldest vine planting of this grape in the State.

Curiously Ridgemill’s tempranillo was planted by a Spanish gentleman nine years ago. This wine also outpointed an Adelaide Hills tempranillo to be top gold of the class.

So when next in Cairns ask for an old semillon and knock it back with a sliver of bbq painter lobster.

And think what the judges say about tropical drinking.

Full wine results www.cairnswineawards.com.au