Italian week in eastern Australia during June 2011 had an extra note of joyousness – it was also a celebration of 150 years of the Italian Unification.

Italians in Queensland took on a full swag of events which celebrated all things Italian; culture was to the fore as were vehicles, song and dance, dress and costumes, food, wines and water, Venetian glass and travel.

Author and wife Denise toast to the Illumination

The most spectacular start was the illumination of Brisbane’s Story Bridge in green, white and red, while the historic building, Conrad’s Treasury Casino followed suit.

My participation was a no brainer, partnering with Dolci Sapori’s talented Sicilian pastry chef Aladino Pozzebon by pairing his dolci with origins across Italy with my selections of sweeter Italian wines.

The Piemontese-based producer Gancia was another partner-of course why not – it produced Italy’s first sparkling wine in 1865, but not soon enough to toast the Unification so we do it today.

The pairings started with dry bubbles and savoury nibbles at the Commonwealth Bank Flagship Branch, 240 Queens Street in Brisbane. Even if you don’t bank with them, a trip inside enhances the new generation of banking experiences.

Gancia Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene Platinum NV (USD 32) 11%; +++; is lovely wine, unpretentious, pale, subtle, the grape aromatics restrained and delicate, closed fruitiness which expresses a little fresh yeast, then dry and pleasant, mild alcohol and a savoury end to a good drop.

Arancini pairing-Prosecco Platinum

Paired was arancini; served cold, Sicilian stuffed rice balls, rolled in breadcrumbs and in this case filled with a hearty beef ragu to provide the saltiness and the savoury notes to pair with this Prosecco. Bravo.

Gancia Moscato d’Asti 2007 (USD 26.50); 5.5%, +++; barely has fizz but comes over quite reserved to sniff, the taste is mild, grapey yes, but quite restrained, lemony from the fruity white moscato grapes but drying from its high acidity, 100 g/L sugar.

The Tuscan-origin dolce was Cantuccio di Siena paired with the moscato, Aladino’s rendition of an almond biscotti, served slightly soft due to his Sicilian touch, with orange zest cleverly integrated into the biscuit.

Anselmi’s wonderful late harvest wine, I Capitelli made from gargengna in the Soave region (Monteforte d’Alpone where I have visited) was paired with Aladino’s Pasta di Mandorla, a soft envelope of dessert pasta enclosing an almond filling, tacky sweet to balance the racy wine acidity.

Anselmi I Capitelli 2008 IGT (USD 47.75); 12.5%; ++++; pale green, attractive, aromas of the rack drying process, honey, lemon zest and oak-influenced sweetness, rich and delicious in the mouth, more honey, good dryness and minerality from a variety which has high natural acid, 200 g/L sugar.

Pasta pairing-Anselmi I Capitelli

Anselmi has renounced the DOCG status of similar mass-produced wines known as Recioto di Soave, using the more general IGT naming and branding the wine production method as “vino da uva stramature” or wine from dehydrated grapes. This is non-botrytis, withered berry, oak aged white wine making.

Gancia Modonovo 2007 Asti (USD 26.50); 9%; +++; pale, fizzy, grapey and effusive, then light textured, fine, minerally, limey acidity abounds with an expression of the canelli grape without any adornments; pure pleasure, sugars 80 g/L.

Cannoli pairing-Modonovo Asti

The dessert pairing was the most famous dessert of Sicily, cannoli di ricotta, this being fried wafers filled with sweetened ricotta and choc chip in this instance; there are many variations of flavour profiles but they all highlight the importance of ricotta on this large island.

Gancia Brachetto D’Acqui NV (USD 26.50); 6.5%; +++; cherry coloured sparkling red, native to Piemonte, and here in the Acqui area, charming aromas of red currants, a totally juicy mouthful of sweetness and varietal black fruits, ends off dry from the tannin, brachetto grape, 80 g/L sugar.

Chocolate pairing-Brachetto NV

Chocolate and sparkling sweet red are bedmates; the pairing on this evening being Amaretto e Cioccolata; almond amaretto with skin on, moist southern style centre, chocolate dipped. Chocolate plus sweet red fruits is heaven.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Last year’s visit to the hills of Barolo did not include the cantina of Luca Currado from Vietti, and what a shame.

Vietti winemaker Luca Currado from Castiglione Falletto

But I managed to drink his arneis and Langhe red-Perbacco on several occasions in local establishments.

However the best result was for Lucca to recently hit Australian shores with his wonderful dolcetto, barbera and nebbiolo, showing 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009 examples.

A visit to his winery and vineyards will have to wait until next October.

Luca’s Dolchetto was heavenly-fresh, juicy and really lively. Vietti Dolcetto D’Alba Tre Vigne 2009; 13.5% (USD 40.50); +++; totally vibrant colour and aromas, really shrill, palate soft, juicy, acid angular but that’s due to its level and dominance over tannins, made in stainless steel. Tre meaning three-there are three vineyard sites-Monteforte D’Alba, Novello and Castiglione.

Vietti have spent considerable effort in rejuvenating the barbera grape away from nebbiolo heartland. Vietti Barbera D’Asti Tre Vigne 2008; 14% (USD 46.50); +++1/2 from outside Alba, in Agliano Terme, logically from the labelling being the Asti region. This looks and smells or cherries and violets; average colour density but above average personality. It’s fruity, soft, oak is hidden, the dryness is partnered by bitterness streams which are fruit intensity.

Vietti Barbera D’Asti 2008

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2007 and 2008; 14% (USD 49.50); +++1/2 and ++++; 07 has lovely youth and vibrance, lots of nose and soft, tight composed palate; 08 shows youth colours but aging on the nose, toffee, molasses, lots of character and early-formed complexity.

The company says these qualify for Barolo as the vineyard sources include Bricco Boschis, Ginestra, Mosconi, Liste, Brunella, Crocetta, Permanno di Fossati and Ravera di Novello e Scarrione. Obviously the better selections and vineyards become the Barolo.

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2008

Vietti Castiglione Barolo 2006 and 2007; 14.5% (USD 121.25); ++++1/2 and ++++; the 06, a great year, is just starting to go into maturity, florals, herbs, long and tight, long liver, silky now and will continue that way; 07 has perfume, light colour though huge palate; multiple layers of tannins and more, atypical to have such body as well, a monster drink now but will settle.

Vietti has three traditional single vineyard Barolos; Vietti Rocche (Castiglione Falletto), Brunate (La Morra) and Lazzarito (Serralunga D’Alba) 2007; 14.5% (USD 268); ++++; ++++1/2; and ++++; Rocche all dried herbs, violet, has minerality along the talc and chalk effect on tannins and acidity, finessed, silk, Brunate, sweet nose, barley sugar fruit intensity, sweet again on palate, just wonderful flavours, Lazzarito is just great, again talc-like minerality but grippier tannin, long on texture and the flavours hang.

Vietti Single Vineyard 2007-Lazzarito

Vietti Single Vineyard 2007-Rocche

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I cannot say much more other than to underline that Vietti’s nebbiolos are a knockout. And the labels colourful.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

The variety shiraz (syrah) is one which gives red wine drinkers a warm feeling of satisfaction.

And that’s because this variety has so much flesh and flavour, usually associated with wines of enormous or memorable colour depths. They are not tiny wines.

So I was quite concerned that a recent featured global shiraz tasting did not reach great heights, and it raised a couple of issues for wine buyers-that of how to recognise quality, and not to be sucked in by the label blurb (nor reputation).

When you make shiraz purchases, taste the wines before you buy them, don’t rely on recommendations as some will let you down, particularly if your sensory sensitivities vary from that of the recommender (who is often out for just the sale).

This 10 shiraz tasting list was not aimed at the best in the world, nor the worst, but just credible examples of global styles from reputable regions to show taste diversity.

My biggest concern was over the wine taint brettanomyces (brett for short) which prevailed through two of the three wines from the Rhone Valle y- a very poor indictment on French winemaking, and a waste of funds if you bought the wine.

And one can easily be caught – I tipped a bottle of reputable 1999 Rioja down the sink at a restaurant last Friday – the brett level was so obnoxious that smelling a wine resembling sweaty horse flanks and rear quarters was simply too much to handle. Bad wine.

Wines are recorded in order of enjoyment, though there was not a lot there! There were no starry drinks.

Cotes du Rhone (Mon Redon) Abeille-Fabre 2007 Fra ; 13.5% (USD 26); +++1/2; this wine was just so vibrant, cherry colour, not deep, volumes of red fruits, jubes, aromatic, then fruity-a sweet mouth followed on by a nice soft, drying palate with the fruit ever pleasant. The type of Rhone I wish to drink, grenache and shiraz blended.

Torbreck The Struie 2008 Barossa/Eden Valley AUS ; 15% (USD 52); +++1/2; very deep colour which signifies warm area shiraz, lots of evidence from aging in sweet oak, smells of suntan oil, volatile from long oak aging too, a huge, big, rich and round wine, lolly-ripe, great for punters but style-wise a “dead-fruit” wine made from very ripe grapes.

Warm area shiraz-Torbreck 2008

Stonecroft 2007 Hawkes Bay NZ ; 13.5% (USD 50.15); +++1/2; light colour, middling, nose clearly cool region-clove and pepper, minty too, oak subtle almost hidden, some chewiness then a silk-soft finish, not great, high acidity does not assist. A plain kiwi closed under diam.

Cool area syrah NZ-Stonecroft 2007

Hidden Creek 2008 Granite Belt AUS ; 13.5% (USD 32.15); +++1/2; medium red colour, cherry, enough American oak to peg this for a warm area example but underneath the fruit-buried-with-oak is cool region style, juicy fruit, drying but rich, lots of licorice. From Ballandean, a basic Granite Belter.

Cool area shiraz-Qld Hidden Creek 2008

Mt Langhi Ghiran 1999 Grampians AUS ; 14.5% (USD 37.50); +++1/2; red colour, brown edges for age, jammy fruit, alcohol hotness apparent, white pepper too, dry leaf also, dusty, touch of brett but not awful, palate very good and sumptuous, very fine style; shows that this region’s wines age well.

Two Hands Bellas Garden 2002 Barossa AUS ; 14.5% (USD 59); +++; deep colour, still retains some purples, a very good Barossa vintage, nose of syrup, ribena-juice drops, very sweet smelling as in “dead-fruit” styles where chasing late hang time pushes the fruit overboard, rich but syrupy-sweet fruit propped up with sweet oak, not a good style but a “punters” drink. Not the fashion.

Porcupine Ridge 2007 Paarl RSA ; 14% (USD 24 ); +++’ medium colour, not great, browning, lots of French oak, leafy, slightly feral, juicy fruit, appears cool climate, lots of DMS and mulberry conserve aromas, very soft, some reductive flavours, oyster shell, feral, then bitters and black fruits; complicated wine with both pluses and minuses to weigh up. Drink it, maybe, closed under screw cap.

Warm+cool area syrah South Africa-Porcupine Ridge 2007

Penfolds Kalimna Bin 28 2000 McLaren Vale Barossa AUS ; 13.5% (USD 40.75); +++; light colour, not holding, bricky, remember the year was a lousy one for the region; here is an example, volatility shows, very solid nose, juicy, licorice, warm area style, aged American oak smell pervades, rich finish, soft palate, alcohol warm and now drying out. Basic big company blend-generous on the flavour.

Cote-Rotie (Domaine Jamet) 2005 Ampuis Fra ; 12.5% (USD 152 ); +++; very deep purple colour, a good start, smelly, bretty, lots of whole bunch ferment aroma, charry new oak, French of course, very drying/tannic palate which is accentuated by the brett which strips all the available sugars out of the wine. Has mouth sweetness but finishes hard, bad value and certainly a wine I could not drink, and feel dudded by the price.

Crozes-Hermitage (Gilles-Robin) cuvee Alberic Bouvet 2006 Fra ; 13% (USD 50.15); ++; aged colours, browns, charry oak, feral, lots of whole bunch aromas and brett, very reductive tastes and pervading brett palate, unusually high acidity for the region, very drying as a result and not a wine to spend much time in your mouth. Poor value, does not deserve shelf space.

So beware of what shiraz you buy: there are style traps out there.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au

Six first generation Hunter Valley brands have set their sights on a common goal-to put the new Hunter wine styles out for all of us to see.

And after all they have been doing this for some time, probably over a decade.

Now it is so obvious that they had to do something further than just talking. New Generation Hunter Valley has been born amongst the Pokolbin boys.

The makers are De Iuliis, Hook, Margan, Meerea Park, Mistletoe and Thomas. The guys took their wines on the road dropping in at as many surf clubs as they could gather between Sydney and Noosa recently.

I caught the new vibes at The Surf Club in Southbank in Brisbane.

David Hook Pinot Grigio 2010; (USD 19.25); 12.5%, +++, juicy nose, pale and fresh, good slippery texture and powerful flavour. A wine style that has been around a long time, from the Adina vineyard in Lovedale Road planted twenty years ago.

David Hook Viognier 2009; (USD 26.75); 14.5%, +++1/2, heavenly aromas of the grape-ginger and melon, the palate solid and full, just as viognier is, more full-bodied than today’s chardonnay, a big elixir, and this finishes fresh and very drinkable. Aged in old barrels where the variety enjoys the aging without obvious oak ingress.

David Hook 20 yo vines Shiraz 2009 Pothana Vineyard

Thomas Six Degrees Semillon 2010; (USD 23.50); 9.5%, ++++, as a fresh and zippy white this is outstanding, a competitor for the FGR riesling styles coming out of Tasmania (forty grams residual), early picked and full of lime juice expressions as a wine finished at 42 grams/litre residual.

Styles similar are the kabinett rieslings coming from the Mosel and Rheingau. “Thommo” feels free to innovate, and this would be great with Sichuan style chicken where the chilli heat needs quelling.

Since last reviewing Thomas Wines there has been a profusion of single, select vineyard shiraz-Sweetwater 2009 and Motel Block 2009 now join his flagship Kiss 2009, and then there is the blended shiraz, DJV 2009.

Motel Block was a vineyard planted in 1969 by the Sydney notable John Walker, with the grapes more recently going to a corporate buyer but now in the hands of a specialist who will give them a lot more love.

Thomas Sweetwater Shiraz 2009; (USD 37.40); 13.7%, ++++1/2; good attractiveness in the glass, freshly aromatic from its new oak, including American, great mouth sweetness, fruit char, black fruits and the delicious softness of Hunter shiraz made in the most modern vein.

Thomas Sweetwater Shiraz 2009

The Eather brothers of Meerea Park were there with their newest reds plus smart semillon and chardonnay.

Meerea Park Hell Hole Semillon 2010; (USD 26.75); 10.9%, ++++; very pale, very lemony, very taut as we expect for this variety from this region-of course it’s the hallmark variety. This has fineness and puckering acidity that matches it with a freshly bbq’d crustacean; just a must.

Pokolbin when translated in an Eastern European language, Polish I think, means “hell hole”.

Meerea Park Alexander Munro Semillon 2006; (USD 37.40); 10.5%, ++++1/2, shows how these taut examples age, and does it well. This is a touch cheesy, semillon speak for age character, still nose restrained, then taut with a lash of honey to recognise some age. Still young wine.

Meerea Park Hell Hole Shiraz2007; (USD 53.40); 13.6%, ++++, looks brilliant, holds its purple colour, is rich yet medium bodied, lovely savoury sensations, but soft and easy, the fruit keeps toying with the palate, then it finishes taut. Outstanding wine. Made with 40% new barrels, 40% whole bunches yet inky wine.

Meerea Park Hell Hole Shiraz 2007

Keep surfing with the boys from New Generation Hunter Valley-it’s all serious stuff.

Peter Scudamore-Smith is a Brisbane-based Master of Wine, winemaker and educator www.uncorkedandcultivated.com.au