Peter Scudamore-Smith MW of the Brisbane-based wine advice label Uncorked & Cultivated on discovery in Vietnam; this city the ancient capital of Hue; staying in a grandiose villa at Ancient Hue Garden House & Villas to soak up local sites, tastes and hospitality vistas. The ancient buildings; temples, shrines, walled and moated citadel, canals and old-fashioned roads; littered with scooters, bikes and run-down mini retail stores, centre around, and along the Huong or Perfume River. Found a French-inspired, Viet-owned La Carambolle (probably translated from the yellow carambola fruit) serving five-spice marinated duck, also frites for comfort; great fish soup consomme at Le Soleil (the accommodation’s signature poolside signature eating house); then a rare meal, at a restaurant on bamboo stilts in the sea proximate; Tam Giang Lagoon (it extends for 35 km) of small whole fried lemongrass prawns, then garlic-steamed rabbitfish; the local inhabitants here. Other sites -the lipsticked Ancient House gardener who looked a million under a typical rice straw hat and a glass of Aragon Spain grenache with Oz- grown Angus rib.